My mentor, the legendary perfumer Sophia Grojsman, is known as the queen of roses, but her genius is in using nuanced notes like herbs and spices to create unusual effects. Lancôme Trésor wouldn’t be the same without the clever use of clary sage. Yves Saint Laurent Paris needs the sharp anisic notes to add light to the powdery layers. The basic architecture of her compositions may be a straightforward combination of Galaxolide, Iso E Super and ionones, but the facets are added in such intricate ways that Sophia’s formulas still puzzle experienced perfumers.
Our topic for Lesson 5 was lavender, and today we will talk about clary sage. Many beginners avoid herbs because it’s difficult to use them without turning a formula into the essential-oil aisle of Whole Foods. I would like to give you examples of perfumes that use herbs and guide you through exercises that will help you master these complicated but fascinating materials. Clary sage is one of the most elegant of all herbs, and my goal today is to make you fall in love with this ingredient.