Perfumer Error #1: No Theme

And how to solve this common mistake

I can usually tell within the first few minutes whether a perfume works or not. Not because of the materials or the technique, but because of something more basic.
Does it have a theme?

Over the years of teaching perfumery, I’ve noticed that the most common and most fundamental error is the absence of a theme. Or such a mishmash of ideas that figuring out what the composition is about becomes a detective work.

A perfume, whether artistic or technical, must have a theme. When you smell it, you should be able to answer a simple question: what is this about. Think of Clairol Herbal Essences, which smells of green apple. It is not complex, being a shampoo fragrance, but it is bright, legible, and intentional. Think of Demeter Gin and Tonic. Again, not a masterpiece, but the idea is clear. The moment you spray it, you imagine a juicy squeeze of lime into a glass of gin and bitter tonic.

For paid subscribers, this is the skill that matters most: recognizing when a composition fails, understanding why, and developing judgement that you can trust.